Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Tutorial: Interlined Window Panels - UGA themed!

As promised, here is my tutorial for Robbie's window treatments.  This is a pretty long post. Blogger won't allow me to upload a Word file, so here it is in all it's long, long glory!


First, measure your window and decide how much gather you want in the treatment and determine how long you want them.  For my purposes, the window measure 38” wide, and my panel wound up being 54”.  I didn’t want a lot of gathers, because I thought I would lose my stripes. I also took my panel from the top of the casing to the floor.  My length was 97.5”   So I added 5 inches to my finished length to account for the ½” seam allowance at the top and the 4.5” (turned hem up ½” then 4”).

The stripes are pieced together in random widths.  The red panels are 12” and 8”.  The white panels are 3 @ 3” and 1 at 4”.  The black panels are 15”, 10” and 6”.  Stitch them together with a ¼” seam. Cut a lining piece and interlining or black out piece at the exact width your final panel will be.  You’ll see why in a moment.

I used a 3” hem in my lining and a 4” hem on my panels.  Account for your hem in your measurements.

You’ll also need a casing for your rod.  I made my casing in two parts in case I needed a support hook in the middle of my panel.  Use your final width less 1” inch on each side and ½” inch in the middle. So if you final width is 54”, you’ll have two pieces that are 3” x 25.5”.  54 – 3 inches divided by 2.  You can make your casing narrower or wider to accommodate different rod diameters.  I have a 2 inch rod, so I made my casing 3.5” wide.  I also double my casing for extra support, because the panels were very heavy.  If yours are heavy, make your casing 7” x 25.5”.

Making the casing: If you have a double casing, fold it in half lengthwise and press.  Stitch the side opening closed and turn from the top edge.  Because I had selvage edges, I didn’t stitch the top.  If you have don’t have a selvage edge, stitch across the top leaving an opening for turning.  You basically are creating a tube.  Turn and press the opening under.  You’ll close it when you stitch to the lining.  If you are using a single casing, turn under all sides about a ¼” and press.  Stitch the side seams.  You’ll close the bottom and top when you attach it to the lining.

We’ll attach the casing first.  Measure down 1 inch from the top and about an 1 ½ from the sides as shown.  Note: I measured 1 ¼” and it wasn’t enough.  I had to go back and fix it.  Learn from my mistake and go the full 1 ½”.

This is where you’ll place your casing.  Pin the first one in place across the top on the right side like so.

Place the second strip right next to the first like so. Be sure to leave ½” space between.

Now finish pinning around the bottom too.

Now stitch across the top and bottom to attach it to your lining.  We’ll come back to this part in a bit.

Hem your lining to your desired length.  I made my lining 1 ½” shorter than my main panel.  Turn it up ¼” then another 3”.  My finished panel is 97.5”, so my lining piece is hemmed to 97”.  You’ll need ½” at the top.  Make sure you turn your hem to the wrong side.

Now hem your main panel.  I turned up ½” then 4”.  Here is the hem after I stitched it.

Now, we will press a hem on the sides of the panel which will be folded over the lining and interlining at a later time.

Measure in ½” from each side and press.

Now fold it over again this time 1 full inch and press. Do both sides.  Leave this for later.

Now lay your lining right side up on your work surface.  I laid mine on the floor, because it was too big for my work surface.

Now lay your main panel on top of your lining right sides together.  Your folded edge of the top panel should line up with the lining.  If it doesn’t and it’s too wide, don’t worry, we can fix that in a moment. You might have a problem if it’s too short.  If you are off by ½”, you’ll be fine.  If it’s off more than that, you’ll have to recut your lining.

Pin these together. You can run a basting stitch to hold these together if you want.  It will make things easier.  Ask me how I know!

If you aren’t using an interlining or black out lining, you can run a ½” seam across the top.  FOLD BACK YOUR SIDES AND STITCH TO YOUR FOLD.  DO NOT STITCH ON TOP OF THIS FOLD.  See my pin?

If you are using an interlining or black out lining, lay it on top of your main panel right side down. Don’t mind my pieced together black out lining.  I was too lazy to go to Joann’s for more.  Pin this to the top using the same pins you already have in place. 

Now go around all your edges and tuck the lining and interlining into the fold you pressed earlier.  Make sure everything lines up well.  If not, carefully use your scissors to cut off the excess.  You want the lining pieces to line up right at the fold of your main panel.  You can pin the side edges if you want to keep everything from moving.  Take it to your machine and run a ½” seam across all layers across the top.  Flip your main panel over and press this seam very well.

If you don’t care about having a top stitch, run a top stitch a scant 1/8” across this pressed seam.  It will keep the panel from moving when you put it on the rod.  I did not want a top stitch.  Here’s what I did to solve my problem of the front panel slipping in the front.  Ask me how I know this is a problem!!

Lay your panel across your ironing board with the main panel on one side and the blackout and lining on the other side as shown.

In this picture, it doesn’t have my casing.  This is where I made my first mistake.  You should have your casing already sewn to the lining.  Now you want to run stitch lines right across the casing stitch lines you made before (both sides).  What you are doing is stitching the blackout lining to the lining to keep it from shifting once installed on the rod.  Ask me how I know this is a problem!

Now put the pieces back together and press well.  The next step is to sew the sides, and you are finished!

Lay your panel back out on your work surface or the floor.  Tuck the lining and blackout lining back into the fold you created on the sides like so.

Make sure the fold does not cover your casing opening. Pin all the way down each side.

It should look like this.

You can opt to run a blind hem stitch all the way down both sides like I did, or you can run a stitch line down both sides.  Your preference here.  I didn’t want the seam showing, so I used the blind hem.
Press the whole panel really well.  Then run your rod through the casing. Ignore my selvage edge.  No one will ever see it.

This is what the middle section looks like. I guess I could have cut my strings before I snapped the pic!

So now when I switch to a cafĂ© rod, I will have an opening in the center. I know I will need another bracket to help support the weight. 

Hang your panel, and you are finished!

I hope this is helpful.  Please feel free to email me with questions or if I didn't make something clear.  I should have done this post much earlier when my memory was fresh.


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