How to install a zipper in a pillow with piping.

There are quite a few tutorials out there on how to install a zipper in a piped pillow.  Trust me, I've tried most all of them.  And after many trial and error approaches (mostly error) using these methods, I've come up with a hybrid way of using bits and pieces from some of these and incorporating them with my own ideas.  I thought I'd share my way with you.

If this way doesn't work for you, keep looking and trying until you do.  It's really about patience and practice.  I'll even give you my tried and true way of matching patterns.

I'm assuming you know how to sew a basic pillow with a zipper.  There are plenty of tutorials out there if not.  I'm only going to show you the basics for installing a zip when there is piping involved.

The first thing to do is press one side of the invisible zipper flat. At this point, you should already have your piping attached to the pillow front or back.

I like using a piping or welting foot on my machine.  They aren't terribly expensive and well worth their weight in gold if you do a lot of piping.  I have already serged the edges of each pillow section where the zipper will go.

Then I measure in 2-3" from each edge (depending on the pillow size) and mark my zipper placement.  This is where I will start and stop stitching.  This is done on both pillow pieces.

Next, line up the piping under your piping foot just like you did when you attached it.  Take the flat zipper (the side you pressed flat) and put that under your piping foot and on top of your pillow edge right side down.  The zipper teeth should be right on the edge of the piping and inside the groove of the piping foot.  See where my skewer is pointing?  My needle position is centered.  I don't touch it.

I use a skewer to gently keep the zipper in place as I stitch pressing slightly in that groove of the piping.

This is what it will look like when you have that side complete.

Now the zipper is closed and marks are placed where you stopped and started stitching on the first side.  I should have gotten a close up here.  If you'll look where the #38 is on my cutting mat, you can just make out my red mark.

In order to line up the stripes, marks will also be placed on the other side of the zipper at each stripe. There are two red marks side by side in this picture.  One is my stripe mark, and the other is where the stitching started.

Place the other pillow piece on top right sides facing.

I love wonder tape!  It's one staple I will never be without in my sewing room.  It makes these projects so easy.  It's my secret weapon.

Place a piece of wonder tape on the pillow piece from one mark to the other (these are marks for the zipper placement).  This is one side.

Yellow arrow is where the wonder tape is placed.  The fabric is folded back on itself.  Peel off the paper backing on the wonder tape.

Unzip the zipper and lay it on top of the wonder tape matching the start/stop marks and the stripe line marks.  No pinning and no shifting.  That zipper will stay put.  Stitch that puppy on!  I switch to my invisible zipper foot for this step.  You could always press this side flat and use a regular zipper foot.

And it should look like this. Look at those perfectly aligned stripes!!  Sorry for my messy work area. I was making 6 of these when I did the tute!

The other secret here is to stitch the opposite side next, then stitch the sides.  Get out your wonder tape and put it on the side without piping.  And place the two right sides together.  If you are brave, just put the two sides together and pin at each stripe checking both front and back to make sure the pin hits the stripe on each at the stitch line.  I recommend using the wonder tape until you've done a few.  Just be sure to match your stripes whatever method you choose.  I do it this way so if I have a mistake or my stripe placement is off, it's easier to rip out.

If using pins, you should have one at every stripe.  Stitch.

Now you have a big pillow tube!

Now simply stitch the two sides (remember to open the zipper) and that's it!  Marvel at your newly stitched, perfectly aligned striped, piped pillow.  Say that fast 3 times!!

I hope this method works for you.  Please feel free to ask questions if I haven't made something clear.

Thanks for stopping by!
Angela

Hem Tape Made Easy - A Tutorial

If you are like me, you have a really difficult time stitching hem tape correctly and straight.  These black pants needed hemming, and I was way too lazy to switch out the thread on my serger to get a nice finish on the raw edge.  I had hem tape, but I always had difficulty getting it lined up when stitching it to the raw edge.

Then a I had a light bulb moment!  Do you love wonder tape as much as I do??!!  Look it's 1/4" wide.  And my hem tape is 1/2".

So I had the bright idea (pun intended) to use it to line up my hem tape.  Be sure to press in your hem before you start!  I placed the wonder tape directly on the raw edge of my pant leg.

Then peeled off the paper and overlapped the edge just a smidge.

Next line up the hem tape at the inside edge of the wonder tape so the hem tape hangs off the raw edge by 1/4".  Ingenious, right??!!

When you get back around to the start, place a tiny piece of wonder tape on the start of the hem tape like so.

Fold over the top piece of hem tape and stick it right down on that piece of wonder tape.  I know it sounds confusing with all the talk about tape.  Just look at the photos.

This is what it looks like from the wrong side.

Now take the whole thing to your sewing machine and stitch on that inside edge to attach the hem tape to the pant leg.  I used a stretch stitch since these were knit pants.  I really prefer some sort of zig zag stitch but a straight stitch would work too.  Be sure to stitch down that folded edge of hem tape.

Now fold over your pressed hem and pin it closed.

And hand stitch closed or use a machine if you prefer.  I like the look of hand stitched hems.

Now stand back and marvel at the clean look of your perfectly attached hem tape and newly hemmed pants.

I hope this little trick allows you to try hem tape and not be afraid!

Thanks for stopping by and feel free to ask questions if I failed to make anything clear.

Angela

Adding a placket to the back of a pillow case dress.

I had seen several pillowcase dresses that tied in the back and wanted to make one.  You can see the first one here.

I am putting the finishing touches on Lila's July 4th dress but I thought I'd at least do a post on how to do it....or should I say how I do it.

I have seen a few posts on cutting in a placket, but I thought why??  I already have a seam.  Why not just use it.  Maybe on a real pillowcase, it would be easier to just cut one rather than try to pick out a serged edge.

I am assuming you already know your cuts and measurements, so I won't go through that.  There are plenty of tutes out there on how to make the pillowcase dress.  This is just for the back placket opening.

First finish your raw edges.  I serged mine.

Note:  I am using a 2 1/4" ribbon for this dress, so my casing is 1 1/4"" wide.  For this next part, use the measurement for your size of casing.  If you are only folding over 1/2", you may only want to measure down 2".  Adjust as needed for your opening.

I measured down 4" (to allow for my extra wide casing), but you use the measurement for your casing size.
Pin from that 4" down to the bottom, and stitch the seam (1/2").  Back stitch really well at that 4".

Press the seam open and simply press back that same 1/2" for the 4" open section.  I flipped one piece over so you can see the open part.

I used my 1/4" presser foot and stitched down one side of that open section, across the bottom and up the other side.  It will look like this.  This fabric wasn't the best to do a tutorial.  :(

You need to find the center front.  I did that by folding the dress in half at the seam line and pressing the opposite side.  You can see the seam to the left in the picture below.

Next, I needed to position the front center and back center together so I could cut out the arm holes.  Line up the center front fold with the back seam and pin in place all the way down.

Before I could cut my arm holes, I needed to fold in my casing.  I measured 1 1/2" down and pressed in my casing all the way around.

This is the back.

Now leave the casing folded down.  Line up your arm hole guide and cut out.

This is how the casing looks.

Attach the binding to the arm hole curve.  I used prepackaged bias tape, but you can make it if you choose.  I press the binding into the curve of my arm hole to make it easier to apply.

Apply the binding as usual.

Notice I opened up the folded edge and ran the binding all the way to the raw edge.

I use my 1/4" presser foot and run a line of stitching across the top edge front and back to make the fold easier.  Press along that 1/4" stitch line.

Fold down again and stitch in place very close to the bottom folded edge.

And it's ready for ribbon.

Back view. Close up.

Back view untied.

Back view - full.

Front view.

It just needs the applique and matching panties, and it's finished.

Please post questions below.  My apologies for some of the darker photos.  I really need better lighting in my studio.

Thanks for stopping by.
Angela