Wednesday, May 9, 2012
Mary De Insert Tutorial - Part 3
In this series, we'll go through the steps of attaching the skirt to the insert. Last post, we attached the yoke to the insert. Normally, this would be a very short and sweet lesson. However, because this fabric was much, much heavier than I would normally use, I had some issues with too much bulk. So I'm going to show you how I solved that little problem. I finally asked some wise women over at everythingsewing for some help.
Because I had bulk in the insert and added bulk in the skirt, I had to remove some of the bulk somewhere. The advice given to me was to sew some darts in the top of the skirt, cut away the excess fabric, then run my gathering threads. So let's begin there.
I marked my skirt in 3 different places and took a 3 inch dart in each. I started at my center front of the skirt. The blue mark is my center, and the 2 purple on either side will be my dart lines.
Fold the fabric at the blue line, right sides together, and match the purple marks. Press the fold with an iron. Then decide how far down you want your dart. Mine is roughly 4 inches. Then draw a line from your purple mark all the way down to the folded edge of the fabric where you want the dart to end as shown.
Now you'll want to find the center from that fold to the end of the fabric on each side as shown.
Mark a new center line. Then mark lines on either side of it just like we did before. This one only shows my center line. We want 3 evenly space darts across the skirt.
Now you'll stitch along that dotted purple line to form your dart. Remove it from the machine leaving long tails. At the fold, tie off the top and bobbin thread to keep is from unraveling later. Then cut very close to that stitch line and zigzag over it to keep it from fraying. This picture shows the cut but I forgot to take a picture of the zigzag stitch.
The darts are barely visible and are mostly hidden in the gathers of the skirt. This solution allowed me to remove excess fabric from the top of the skirt where it was problematic but leave the fullness in the bottom of the skirt. It was a win - win. I still have a few threads to remove since I ripped the the skirt out numerous times before I found the ultimate solution.
But there you have it. Now you can finish construction of the dress as usual.